Learning to Crochet
This is my journalling page, recording each crocheting project I have done in order. Helpful
information about each project includes: where I found the pattern/directions, what size crochet hook &
yarn I used, how long it took me to complete each project, what I found challenging/new skills learned
and any special notes. I hope that you find this page useful as you teach yourself or your children to crochet. If you have suggestions,
please email me.
When I was little, my mom taught me to crochet. I was
so excited that I had learned something new and really went at it. Then I took the cord to her and asked her what do I do with it. And she said, you don't really
do anything with it. Well, pfiff, the light went out. And I never crocheted again because I thought it was a waste of time.
When I discovered the Waldorf method I realized that I was going to have to teach my children crocheting in second grade. The book I purchased to teach myself to crochet in earnest was 63 Easy-to-Crochet Pattern Stitches: Combine To Make An Heirloom Afghan by
Darla Sims. I was expecting a new baby (Rebecca) and I thought that I could make her a baby blanket. I chose 100% cotton yarn, Peaches & Creme, in white and got a size H hook. I was ready to begin!
I completed the first square, single crochet, between September 16 and October 12 2004.
I completed the second square, half double crochet, between October 12 and October 18 2004.
I completed the third square, double crochet, between October 18 and October 19 2004.
Then I decided to skip to square seven, alternate puff stitch, because I wanted something more interesting. I started
October 19th and never finished.
I really do recommend purchasing this book. You can practice a square over and over, learn new stitches or review old ones, and create something almost
right away. There are also plenty of diagrams and pictures of the finished project, so you can check that you're doing it properly. Now I'm espeically glad I have it because I can use it as a reference for future projects. And I can always go back and finish the afghan later. The stitches
taught in this book are
- 1 - single crochet
- 2 - half double crochet
- 3 - double crochet
- 4 - treble crochet
- 5 - front and back loop hdc
- 6 - trinity stitch
- 7 - alternate puff stitch
- 8 - chevron relief stitch
- 9 - arch stitch
- 10 - offset cluster
- 11 - horizontal relief stitch
- 12 - open ridge stitch
- 13 - bushy stitch
- 14 - seed stitch
- 15 - afghan square
- 16 - granny square
- 17 - cluster square
- 18 - woven relief stitch
- 19 - circle in a square
- 20 - plain square
- 21 - flower square
- 22 - cross stitch
- 23 - slant stitch
- 24 - climbing shells
- 25 - aligned shells
- 26 - simple shell stitch
- 27 - block and offset shell stitch
- 28 - boxed shell stitch
- 29 - alternate spike sc
- 30 - eyelet lace
- 31 - check stitch
- 32 - aligned cobble stitch
- 33 - silt stitch
- 34 - V stitch
- 35 - twin stitch
- 36 - little crowns
- 37 - popcorn braid
- 38 - diagonal popcorn
- 39 - popcorn diamond
- 40 - fan stitch
- 41 - fan and popcorn
- 42 - fan trellis
- 43 - puff stitch
- 44 - cluster braid
- 45 - crossed ripple stitch
- 46 - palm leaves
- 47 - ripple stitch
- 48 - raised ripple stitch
- 49 - lacy wave stitch
- 50 - picot stitch
- 51 - star stitch
- 52 - up and down stitch
- 53 - crossed puff stitch
- 54 - aligned puff stitch
- 55 - parallel post stitch
- 56 - snapdragon stitch
- 57 - alternate mesh stitch
- 58 - soft clusters
- 59 - clusters
- 60 - doubles
- 61 - rib stitch
- 62 - basket weave
- 63 - parallel cables
They proceed, roughly, in order of difficulty. You can also choose to work on the afghan and take time off from it, do another project which works further
with the stitch just learned, then return to the afghan again. She gives a suggested arrangement of the squares to give the afghan variety and texture, without simply
progressing from least to most difficult. It really is quite lovely when completed.
This project is found in The Nature Corner: Celebrating the year's cycle with a seasonal tableau
by M v Leeuwen & J Moeskops, page 22.
For this project I purchased Magallenes yarn, color 300 (beiges). This is a thick and thin hand-dyed 100% wool yarn which I think
will give the perfect texture for the root children (I got mine at A.C. Moore but you can also buy it online). I am using a size I hook.
- I began this project February 17 2006 and finished it February 21 2006.
- I never was able to comprehend the directions for this project. Partially it was technique, I just didn't understand
what they were talking about, and partially it was the yarn. The thick and thin is beautiful but I would not recommend it for a new crocheter
since it is VERY hard to find your place. Here is my modified design:
- I crocheted a single chain about as long as the reach of my two outstretched arms (hold the chain on one hand, stretch
your arms all the way out and the chain should reach all the way across your chest to the other hand) and then tied it off.
I took a yarn needle and threaded it with some more of the yarn and simply started to sew the chain up into a little bag shape as was described in the
directions. to make the bottom of the root-child, sew the chain around and around like a braided rug until it is the width you want. then begin to
sew the chain vertically up around the edges to make a shallow basket and continue until you have a bag the depth you want. If you are holding the
yarn needle in your right hand, put your left thumb inside the root child's body (upside-down) to help shape it. the finished project will look neater if you keep the loose end
of your yarn, and your needle, inside the root child's body, thereby hiding your stitches. when you are happy with the length of your
root child, then bring the chain in
closer and closer to close it up at the top leaving a little room for the wool stuffing and the little face. my chain made a root-child which was a little over 2 1/2 inches
long. if you have extra chain left over, just cut it when you're done and tie off the end.
- for the face, I used a lightweight silk/linen blend fabric in a flax color and embroidered the face in matching thread (acutally, a little bit lighter) for a sort of tone on tone effect
to make the child look very pale and sleeping. I just did a very simple face, one stitch for each eye and a small mouth embroidered in satin stitch.
- For the hair I again used the Magallenes yarn. I made six 8 inch long braids of the yarn, three strands of yarn for each braid. again, you can easily cut your braids
if they turn out to be too long and just tie off the ends, so it's better to make them longer than you think you might want and adjust them when the project is done. I sewed the braids
evenly around the back of the doll's head where I wanted "hair" then arranged the braids as needed to cover any sewing marks or odd edges. I left the rest of each braid hanging down
to resemble the little dried roots which hang off of a bulb.
- Then I laid our root-child under a bed of "earth", color #3 from Weir Dolls (chocolate). If any snow
comes we can simply lay some white wool on top of that.
- There are lots of early spring verses and rhymes, stories, fingerplays, and songs in Waldorf kindergarten books. Here is
a favorite which goes well with this project:
The Little Brown Bulb
A little brown bulb
lay asleep in the ground,
In his little brown nightie
he made not a sound.
King Winter he roared
and he raged overhead,
But the little brown bulb
never stirred in his bed.
But when spring came
tip-toeing over the leigh, (or sea)
With fingers to lips
as soft as can be,
The little brown bulb
just lifted his head,
Slipped off his nightie
and jumped out of bed.